Pre-Montalcino

I'm heading down to Montalcino - as in Brunello di Montalcino - in Tuscany's hill country.  I'm there for 4 days, and I can't wait to explore some hot springs - Bagni San Filippo, in particular, some wineries, and maybe head to Siena for a day.
The weather has been so chilly and rainy and miserable that I can't wait to get away for a few days, especially where there are hot springs involved!

I will be posting pictures of the Bagni and the wineries!

Market Day!

Every Wednesday and Saturday, Piazza Duomo and Piazza Cavalli, right in the centre of Piacenza, are full of stalls and vendors.  Typically Italian, the market sells everything you could imagine, from super fresh fruits and veggies from all across Italy, to local cheeses and cured meats, flowers, clothes, kitchen utensils, crafts, yarn, it is madness!



















The last time I was in Italy, Certaldo, in Tuscany, was where I spent a lot of time.  They had a massive weekly market, and you could buy anything you ever needed!  My favourite stalls are always the food stalls -this week I left with Sardinian spiny artichokes (excellent roasted!), super fragrant and sweet tomatoes, blood oranges (tarocchi), and some chestnut cake.  There is always an abundance to choose from :)

Le Querciole

Last weekend, fed up with finding an apartment in Piacenza, I took a break and found a great deal at an agriturismo in the Apennines, just outside of a tiny town called Borgo Val di Taro.  Le Querciole (I believe this translates as "the young oaks" in English) is a lovely B&B up in the hills, surrounded by forest and pasture. This area is famous for its porcini mushrooms, and has the distinction of having the only IGP (anywhere!) for porcinis. For those interested in mushroom foraging, the season starts in April and goes through to November, so there is lots of time still to go for productive hikes in the woods!

There are loads of agriturismi all over Italy.  Check out http://www.agriturismo.it/en - you just need to input where you want to go, and a whole list will pop up.  You can choose if you want to go to a place by the sea, in the country, in the mountains... And there are many that are vineyards are wineries as well.  So you can filter based on interest!!






Le Querciole : 

The People:  
Paolo and his wife Mirella own and run the agriturismo along with their son.  All were very nice, kind, and very generous with their time and space.  Paolo picked me up and the train station, and his son dropped me off - above and beyond!!






The Place:

Situated in the Apennine mountains, near the tiny town of Borgo Val di Taro, this agriturismo is quiet, calm, and lets you get back to nature.  In addition to porcini mushrooms, there are also loads of juniper bushes, so if you like to cook with juniper berries you can find them here!  There are also many chestnut trees growing all over the property.  There are several horses here, and they are very sweet, curious, and friendly. The views alone are well worth the trip.  To the left, you see mountains in Tuscany, and to the right, in Liguria!

The Food:
Exceptional!  Mirella is a fabulous cook.  The food, whenever possible, was produced locally - if not on site, then close by.  There was a very nice house red, a natural wine made from Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Highlights of my two dinners there were the porcini risotto, the wonderful savoury tart made from a local, rare squash, rice, and I believe eggs.  It was super delicious!  The panna cotta was so good, and the after-dinner liqueur that Paolo served, made from Corniolo fruit, was amazing!

The Room:
The room I stayed in was very nice, clean, and well-appointed.  There was a comfy Queen bed, and a large bathroom.  The view was stunning, looking out into the valley below.

I would highly recommend staying here!!  The prices were really good, and it is a lovely place to escape to.

Codice Fiscale and Permesso di Soggiorno 2016

Steps for getting your permesso di soggiorno, as a student:
The international coordinator at the university was very helpful with filling out this form. If you are a student going to Italy, the university should help you start this process. It does take a while, and it is fairly expensive. All things accounted for, it will cost you about €150.

 For the permesso for students, you will need Modullo 1, an 8-page form. With Modullo 1, there is a payment form you must fill out with your information. You will also need to purchase a Marca di Bollo, for €16, from any Tabbacheria. You will also need photocopies of: - health insurance - acceptance letter from the university - every page of your passport, including front and back covers The 8-page form must be filled out to the best of your ability. If you don't speak Italian, I would highly recommend filling the form out with someone who does. The name you fill in must match the name on your passport. You must also have an Italian address. You will need to bring your passport with you when you submit your permesso. When you have all of those things (marca di bollo, photocopies, modullo 1, payment form, and the envelope the modullo 1 comes in), you must go to the post office. Take a number (category is Sportello Amico), and wait for your number to be called. They will check all the documents you are submitting, and also verify your passport. You will need to pay €30 for the postage, and €101,50 for the permesso di soggiorno. You will also receive a sheet with an appointment time and place, where you will be interviewed for the permesso.

 The length of time you must wait depends on where you are. When I was in Firenze, I believe it was about 2 months. In Piacenza, my appointment date is almost exactly one month from date of submission of the permesso. ***You MUST submit your permesso within 8 days of entering the country. The permesso allows you, as a student, to work up to 20 hours per week, which is an excellent reason to get it!

 One other thing you will need is a Codice Fiscale, a fiscal code. This is free, and easily obtained. You simply visit an Agenzia delle Entrate (in Piacenza, the address is via Modonesi, 16), fill out the form, take a ticket, and your codice will be immediately processed.

 That's it for now!

 PS - I believe that the Permesso forms may be obtained at the post office, too... If you are not in Italy studying!

Back in Italy!

After six years back in Canada, I have returned to Italy for 6 months. This time, I am here as a student, studying viticulture and enology at Piacenza's Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore. The first week has been extremely challenging: finding accommodation being the biggest hurdle. Getting my permesso di soggiorno and starting school the next two most difficult things. My next two posts will be about getting your permesso, and how it changed for me from 2009, as well as finding an apartment in Italy! Otherwise, I have had a good experience so far. I have met some wonderful international students here, and am living with a lovely Italian-German family, with the cutest little kid I think I have ever met. My Italian is coming along nicely, and I have already been on a little holiday to the tiny village of Borgo Val di Taro, to stay at an agriturismo for the weekend. Check back frequently to read more about my adventures! Nadia

Permesso di Soggiorno

I found it to be much more difficult to get a permesso di soggiorno than it was to get the codice fiscale.
The Consulate in Canada didn't mention anything that would have been helpful for getting this permesso. One of the few stipulations of the working-holiday visa was that I had to get a permesso within 8 days of entry.
Steps:
1. Go to the Questura - Immigration Office (there are many different Questura). Get there as early as you can manage. I would recommend 6am.
2. You must bring with you:
- Passport
- Visa papers
- 2 passport size pictures
- Marca di Bollo 14.62, which can be bought from the corner store, or tobbaconists.
- Bolletino PSE 27 and change, which can be bought from the Post Office.
You will need an address in the city of application for the permesso!
3. Wait in line and take a number, they will give you one starting with the letter A. When your number comes up, go to the till and the attendant will give you another number, one that starts with a B. If you are there early enough you shouldn't have to wait more than a few hours.
4. After your application is processed and your fingerprints are taken, the attendant will give you a paper with an appointment time to come and pick up your permesso. Mine took more than a month and a half so be prepared for a long wait.
Good luck!

Codice Fiscale

I am here on a working holiday visa, and getting that from the Toronto consulate was easy! I found out upon arrival that you need a fiscal code, the codice fiscale, to buy anything here. You need one to buy a cell phone, a house, a car, take a class, etc. Contrary to all the forums out there, you do not need a permesso di soggiorno to apply for and receive this document. You may be able to get the codice fiscale before you arrive in Italy from the consulate in your city, but I went a different route and got one here.
You need your passport and your visa documents (perhaps only your passport). Find an Agenzia della Entrate. If you speak no Italian, you may need to ask around the reception to get help filling out the form. It is very simple, and asks for your name, address in the city, country of birth, etc. If you have just arrived in the city and have no fixed address, I would recommend speaking to the owner of the guesthouse (wherever) you are staying. They may let you put their address down on the form. Next, wait in line until your number is called, go to the counter and give them your documents. They will give you a codice fiscale. Simple as that.

For Florence:
Agenzia della Entrate - per codice fiscale
Via Santa Caterina d'Alessandria
open until 1:30pm